Soshi Otsuki showcased his highly anticipated Fall 2026 menswear collection at Pitti in Florence on March 15, 2024. This marks the Tokyo designer’s first international presentation following his recent win at the LVMH Prize. Despite arriving in Florence just hours before the show, Otsuki’s presentation was met with enthusiasm and acclaim, reflecting the high expectations surrounding this debut.
The atmosphere in the refettorio of the Santa Maria Novella was charged with anticipation as attendees awaited the show. After a whirlwind journey from Milan, where Otsuki had been casting models, he expressed relief at the positive reception of his work. “It seems like it was well received, so I’m relieved,” Otsuki remarked, visibly excited yet tired from the busy day.
Otsuki’s collection drew inspiration from Japan’s bubble era but aimed to carve out a unique identity beyond those nostalgic references. Collaborating with stylist Alister Mackie, Otsuki infused the collection with “a touch of ’80s flair” while ensuring it remained contemporary. He recognized the need to distinguish his designs from those of iconic brands like Armani, which had dominated discussions around his work. “I’ve become a little neurotic about it,” he joked backstage.
The collection stood out for its meticulous attention to detail and innovative fabrications. Notable features included oversized peak lapels, cropped cardigans that emphasized the waist, and trousers adorned with numerous belt loops or draped in dramatic pleats. One striking piece was a trompe l’oeil jumpsuit that cleverly simulated a button-up shirt paired with trousers. Additionally, Otsuki introduced a new grey suiting fabric, yarn-dyed with black and beige, as part of an evolution from his signature sewer-rat power suits.
Vibrant colors and diverse textures characterized the collection. Eye-catching orange cable knit sweaters, rich corduroy in forest green and brown, and smooth pink shirts added depth to the presentation. The collection represented a fresh chapter in tailoring, moving beyond traditional Japanese or Italian aesthetics to create something entirely new.
Collaboration played a significant role in this collection, with Otsuki teaming up with various brands to broaden his design narrative. The sashiko suit and jeans were created in partnership with Proleta Re Art, a Japanese label renowned for its hand-stitched fabrics reimagined for streetwear. Additional collaborations included a quarter-zip with Asics, cigarette holder rings designed by artist Kota Okuda, and shirts from Spanish shirtmaker Camisas Monolo.
The enthusiastic response from the audience highlighted Otsuki’s potential as a transformative figure in menswear. “Beyond! It was beyond!” exclaimed one attendee, capturing the electric atmosphere that permeated the event. As Otsuki accepted the praise, his demeanor remained humble, his signature calm evident amidst the flashes of cameras.
This debut marks a strategic move for Otsuki, positioning him as a designer intent on building a lasting legacy in the fashion world. With the substantial resources afforded by the LVMH win, he is set to expand his brand’s presence and continue to innovate within the industry.
